The cluster of restaurants boasting celebrity chefs at Marina Bay Sands may be intimidating to many who prefer a relatively casual dining experience. Chef Daniel Boulud’s db Bistro and Oyster Bar happens to be one that went against the grain of other high-brow offerings in the area, and offers diners a lively and interactive ambiance to relax before or after an evening at the Mastercard Theatres, located just across the walkway.
L-R: Chefs Jonathan Kinsella, Daniel Boulud and Benjamin Siwek. Photo © Justin Teo.
db Bistro and Oyster Bar, helmed locally by Executive Chef Jonathan Kinsella, has been transformed with the new addition of an oyster bar earlier in 2015. Besides reflecting db bistro’s expanding culinary repertoire beyond classical French cuisine, the addition of the oyster bar is also in line with seafood’s increasing popularity among the bistro’s patrons. I joined others for an evening of culinary theatre starring Chef Daniel, who happened to be in town last weekend for the Singapore International Film Festival Silverscreen Awards and Benefits Dinner on 5 December.
Airy gougère pastry before dinner. A light choux pastry with cheese inside. Photo © Justin Teo.
Act One – “Konichiwa, Je suis Daniel.”
I was puzzled as I peered at the tasting menu. It was my first ever visit to db Bistro and Kumamoto Oysters with Yuzu Kosho Mignonette and Hamachi Tartare with Yuzu, Avocado and Seaweed Salad seemed oddly misplaced on a French menu. I supposed there was no better way to highlight the exposition of the new oyster bar by opening with fresh oysters and seafood. I had a glass of crisp 2010 Jean-Michel Guillon Marsannay “le Champs Perdrix” to go along with the seafood.
Kumamoto Oyster, with yuzu kosho mignonette. Photo © Justin Teo.
With its intense sweetness, the Kumamoto oyster certainly surprised me with a punch of flavours above its diminutive size. A dash of lemon is all I need for my oysters usually, however the fermented yuzu kosho mignonette managed to lift the oyster further with a touch of heat and a truckload of acidity and citrus notes.
Hamachi Tartare salad, with avocado and seaweed, dressed with yuzu. Photo © Justin Teo.
The Hamachi Tartare salad continued the seafood theme with fresh cubes of Japanese yellowtail seasoned with yuzu, avocado, cucumber, sesame seeds and a wedge of lime. The salad led brilliantly into Act Two, where I finally got to try some of Chef Daniel’s classic French dishes.
Act Two – Classically Boulud
The Mariniere of Clam and Crudo, with cubes of torched tuna, tua tua clams from New Zealand and little clams, were swimming “a la nage” in an emerald clam soup perfumed with parsley and fennel soup. The clam soup element was sufficiently impressive with its deep flavours, and the addition of saffron cream and a decadent dollop of Oscietra caviar made this dish exceptional.
Mariniere of Clam and Crudo, with saffron cream and Oscietra caviar. Photo © Justin Teo.
Shortly after I spooned the last drop of the Mariniere out of my bowl, Chef Boulud appeared unannounced and without fanfare, went around the table shaving generous slivers of black truffle on our Dover Sole Black and White, as if the prized fungus in his hand was just a chunk of regular parmesan cheese. Christmas came early for us.
I hope I don’t get hate mail for saying this: the black truffle and white button mushroom sauces cooked “fumet vin blanc” would have carried the creamy dover fish on their own without the pizzazz of the truffle shavings. Even though freshly shaved, the aroma from the freshly shaved black truffle came across rather subtle compared to the rich and layered earthiness of the sauces. I polished off my plate with bread; the sauces were too good to waste.
Dover Sole Black & White, with generous shavings of black truffle. Photo © Justin Teo.
Chef Daniel’s final surprise for us was also my favourite dish of the evening – the Duck a l’Orange was not on the tasting menu, but it pressed all my soft spots with bits of candied orange, roasted foie gras, and crunchy caramelized bits duck skin. The bittersweetness from the orange sauce and acidic highlights from pickled radishes melded deliciously with the juicy oiliness from the duck breast and foie gras. The bok choy was a curious addition to an otherwise brilliant rendition of a duck dish and wouldn’t be missed if absent. Regardless, I loved it so much I unabashedly helped myself to an extra plate and washed it all down with a good glass of 2008 Jean Noël Gagnard, Chassagne-Montrachet “Cuvée L’Estimé” from Burgundy.
Final Act – Sweet Ending
Executive Pastry Chef Benjamin Siwek thoughtfully chose a dessert to herald the holiday season for the curtain call to an evening of culinary drama. Nat King Cole’s “Chestnut Roasting on an Open Fire” came on in my head as I tucked into my slice of Bûche de Noël, a Christmas logcake made with chocolate mousse and chestnut cream. The numerous elements on the dessert made it a logcake extraordinaire.
Bûche de Noël, a Christmas logcake topped with marron glacé with gold leaf. Photo © Justin Teo.
In addition to the velvety chestnut cake, chewy marron glacé, the sprinkle of crunchy pralines and the snap of tempered chocolate stick contrasted textures, dots of dark berry (or cherry) compote balanced the sweetness with a scoop of ginger ice-cream with candied bits in it. The spicy warmth from the ginger ice-cream just put me in the mood for a glass of single-malt, but I’ll settle for the complimentary glass of sweet 2008 Domaine Durban, Muscat Beaumes-de-Venise.
My slice of Bûche de Noël, with velvety chocolate mousse, chestnut cream, chocolate praline and ginger ice-cream. Photo © Justin Teo.
It’s a rare occasion to have the celebrity chef prepare your meal, and even rarer for him to be so generous with his time (and truffle). I must have been a very good boy this year to have been gifted this opportunity with Chef Daniel and his excellent team to start my holiday festivities. Although most of the dishes are not available on the menu beside the oysters, wines and Bûche de Noël, db Bistro and Oyster Bar offers seasonal market specials to highlight the fresh seafood or the French-inspired classics dishes.
Chef Daniel’s bugnes lyonnaises, a special pastry traditionally made during the Christmas period. Photo © Justin Teo.
db Bistro and Oyster Bar
2 Bayfront Avenue
The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands,
B1-48, Galleria Level
Singapore 018956
Tel: +65 6688 8525
Operating Hours: Mon to Fri – 12 pm to 5.30 pm (lunch); Sat to Sun – 11 am to 5.30pm (brunch); Sun and Mon – 5.30 pm to 10 pm (dinner); Tue to Sat – 5.30 pm to 11 pm (dinner)
