Cenzo's New Weekend Brunch is the Italian Affair Club Street Has Been Waiting For

There are brunches you go to for the ‘gram. There are brunches you go to because everyone else is going. And then — if you’re very lucky — there are the ones you go to because the food is genuinely, unapologetically brilliant. Cenzo’s new weekend brunch is firmly in that last category. And, if you haven’t already pencilled it in, consider this your nudge.

Tucked along the always-buzzing stretch of Club Street, Cenzo has been a quiet favourite of those in the know since chef-owner Drew Nocente opened its doors back in 2022. The space has a confident, funky energy — think bold splashes of scarlet and azure, an open kitchen that puts the theatre of cooking front and centre, and an atmosphere that feels equal parts neighbourhood trattoria and modern dining destination. On a weekend, it’s exactly where you want to be.

Taking a shot with Chef Drew Nocente (right).

The brunch is served family-style, which immediately sets the tone: this is meant to be lingered over, shared, and enjoyed properly. At $68++ per person, it is — and I don’t use this phrase lightly — exceptional value. When you see what lands on the table, you’ll understand why.

It starts with the antipasti, and it starts with a statement. The coffin bay oysters with yuzu granita and basil are a thing of absolute beauty. Plump, pristine and bracingly fresh, the delicate citrus bite of the yuzu granita cuts through the brininess in the best possible way. It’s the kind of opener that signals to you, without any ambiguity, that you’re in very capable hands.

Coffin Bay Oyster

You’ll also find burrata with organic tomato, pistachio, basil and dill, silky and generous; a charcuterie and olives selection that’s perfect for grazing; garlic bread with whipped lardo and burnt honey that is dangerously good; and fried squid that is crisp, golden and utterly moreish.

Charcuterie & Burrata with Organic Tomatoes

But the dish that will stay with you — the one you’ll still be thinking about on the drive home — is the caserecce cacio e pepe. When it’s your turn to choose a main, order this without hesitation. It arrives with ceremony: the pasta is finished tableside in a giant wheel of aged pecorino, flambéed with a dramatic pour of vodka and a lick of flame. It sounds theatrical because it is theatrical, and it tastes every bit as extraordinary as it looks. Rich, peppery, deeply savory, and utterly perfect — it was quite simply the best pasta I’ve had all year, and I suspect I’m not alone in that verdict.

Caserecce cacio e pepe

Pecorino Pasta

For those after something more substantial, the mains list also includes a beautifully rendered rigatoni zozzona, Australian wagyu petit tender, and an Iberico chop with apple verjus — all accompanied by a sharing selection of seasonal vegetables. There is something here for every mood and every appetite.

Australian wagyu petit tender

And then there’s dessert, delivered via trolley — a charming touch that immediately brings out the childlike excitement in everyone at the table.

Dessert Trolley

The tiramisu is the crowd favourite, and rightly so: classic, cloud-light, and executed with care.

Tirimasu

For those who want to lean into the full weekend-off spirit, the optional two-hour free flow adds $55++ per person and brings with it limoncello spritz, Canti spritz, Peroni, and both white and red wine. Arrive with your girlfriends, bring the family, gather a group — the sharing format is tailor-made for it.

In a city that does not lack for brunch options, Cenzo has carved out something that feels genuinely special: Italian cooking of real quality and generosity, in a space with personality to spare, at a price point that makes the whole thing feel like a discovery rather than an occasion. Available every weekend, this one deserves to become a permanent fixture in your rotation.