Spicy Noodle Singapore (大師兄銷魂麵舖) has put its signature Master Chilli Sauce and Master Chilli Oil to great use in a new dish, the “Soul-Stirring” Watermelon (S$6.50). This refreshing yet spicy dessert pairs cold watermelon with the oil in a delightful combination, delivering a lingering warmth from mala flavours that also somehow clears the palate at the same time.
“Soul-stirring” watermelon. Photo © Fen Chia
Spicy Noodle Singapore’s Master Chilli Sauce and Master Chilli Oil, which to serve as a foundation in most of the Taiwanese restaurant’s dishes, is an eight-hour labour of love that packs several herbs and spices in an elaborate five-step creation process that sounds eye-wateringly hard to replicate casually.
It all starts with stir-frying beef tallow and chilli peppers. Chinese herbs, fresh fruits and vegetables and fermented rice wine and bean paste are then simmered together, mixing the concoction every five minutes for eight hours, resting it for 12 hours and then filtering the clearest, richest and most fragrant 10% of the precious crimson oil that eventually settles at the top. This crimson oil is what makes the Master Chilli Oil; a single drop is enough to enliven a dish.
The sweetness of the cool watermelon cubes is an intriguing contrast with the ultra-concentrated chilli oil and savoury chilli sauce pairing. It is meant as a dessert, but I think that it would work equally well as a salad. Think of the similarities with the Western summer salad that features watermelon with cubes of salty feta cheese.
Master Chilli Oil.
This was my first visit to the inaugural Singapore Spicy Noodle outlet at Raffles City. One would notice the persistent ad intimidating queues on most days. I was excited to finally taste its famed handmade ‘Xiao Hun’ noodles. Each set of noodles features the secret Xiao Hun noodle sauce and a gorgeous soft-boiled egg. Like the Master Chilli Sauce and Master Chilli Oil, the thick and chewy handmade strands are directly imported from Taiwan to ensure the authenticity of its taste. ‘Xiao Hun’, the Chinese name of the noodle chain means to ‘sell one’s soul’ and can also mean overwhelming joy and sheer ecstasy, something the brand attempts to provide through ensuring rigorous craftsmanship and consistency in each bowl.
Chewy and springy noodles. Photo © Fen Chia
Do not fret if you don’t take spice, as Spicy Noodle Singapore still has options for you, despite its name. My dining companion liked the Mild Beef Soup Set (S$18.80) features sliced US beef and vegetables and braised tofu pouch (what we know as ‘tau pok’). The mild broth is clear yet robust as a result of simmering meat bones for at least six hours, and hits all the right notes of comfort and wholesomeness.
Mild Beef Soup Set. Photo © Fen Chia
Servings of beef are generous. Photo © Fen Chia
As someone who believes that spice is everything nice, I personally preferred the Spicy Beef Soup Set (S$24.80), which comes with my favourite soft and gelatinous beef tendons in addition to sliced beef. The brown broth here is very deep, like what I imagine an Essence of Beef might taste like, rounded off with that famous chilli oil. The menu here is simple, offering variations of noodle sets based on the two types of soup. For example, there is a No Beef Set (S$18.80) where Braised Tofu Pouch, Spongy Tofu and Golden Beancurd take the place of meat, or you could also choose the spicy beef soup with only sliced beef and no tendons.
Spicy Beef Soup Set (excludes the add-on Spicy Braised Spongy Tofu and Soy Chip side dish at the top). Photo © Fen Chia
If you like tendons, there are plenty here. Photo © Fen Chia
While each noodle set already comes with the Braised Tofu Pouch, add on Spicy Braised Spongy Tofu and Soy Chip (S$4.50) as a side, as they soak up the savoury braising liquid very well and are redolent of that classic Taiwanese braised flavour. There are also other side dishes including Blanched Vegetables (S$4), Garlic Cucumber (S$3.80), Spicy Golden Fish Balls (S$4) and Soft-boiled Egg (S$3).
Braised Tofu Pouch comes with each Set. Photo © Fen Chia
Spicy Braised Spongy Tofu and Soy Chip. Photo © Fen Chia
While I had looked to the Soul-Stirring Watermelon as a salad instead of the dessert it was meant to be, the Lemon Aiyu Soda (S$4) was a fitting sweet and sour accompaniment to the meal. The tangy and sparkling lemon drink was just perfect to wash down the bold, spicy and savoury flavours.
Lemon Aiyu Soda. Photo © Fen Chia
I can understand the queues at Spicy Noodle Singapore and its native Taiwan, where its 18 stores boast of lines of customers waiting for up to two hours for seats and consuming over three million bowls a year. This is soul-stirring, comfort food with particular appeal for beef and ramen aficionados, Hopefully it won’t be long before we witness its next foray in Singapore beyond Raffles City.
Spicy Noodle Singapore
252 North Bridge Rd
Raffles City #B1-38
Singapore 179103
Opening Hours: Daily 11am to 10pm
