Ryo Sushi – Is This the Best Value Omakase Set in Town?

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A few months ago, I heard a hole-in-the-wall sushi place had appeared at Orchid Hotel in Tanjong Pagar, another addition to the stable of Japanese restaurants including several ramen joints and the infamous neverending queue of Teppei. “S$18 only for a 10-course omakase set!” proclaimed my friend who tried Ryo Sushi. And it comes with the experience of sitting at a bar counter with the chef making the sushi and serving it course by course to diners. That sounded too good to be true, so I just had to check it out.

Ryo Sushi aspires to go 24-hours in future.

Ryo Sushi aspires to go 24-hours in future.

Chef Roy (left) and an assistant.

Chef Roy (left) and an assistant.

We made reservations, for Chef Roy’s S$18 set is only available in limited quantities–18 portions daily according to his website. The first seating is at 11.45am, while the next is at 12.30pm. Chef Roy also offers three other omakase sushi menus – a 15-course menu (S$38), an 18-course menu ($68) and an 18-course sea urchin menu (S$98). These courses feature premium items such as truffled onsen egg, fatty tuna and urchin. For my basic set, I set low expectations.

Edamame.

Edamame is the first course.

The first course was edamame. I knew that the last two courses would be a hand roll and soup respectively, so what I was really looking out for were the seven sushi pieces in between. And while they were generally creations that were not out-of-this-world original, every single piece was fresh.

Sea bream sushi with truffle shoyu.

Sea bream sushi with truffle shoyu.

I could not taste the truffle, but the freshness and the well-shaped piece left a good impression that convinced me that I was in good hands.

Salmon sushi with ponzu jelly.

Salmon sushi with ponzu jelly.

Next came a piece of fatty salmon belly, with some ponzu jelly that dissolved in my mouth. The blend of sweet, sour citrus and saltiness went quite well, I thought.

Squid sushi with sesame.

Squid sushi with sesame.

The third course was squid with sesame seeds on top. Squid is generally one of my favourites given its sticky, creamy texture.

Salmon aburi sushi with shoyu foam.

Salmon aburi sushi with shoyu foam.

The next piece was seared salmon with a soy sauce foam. After the earlier ponzu jelly, I was even more impressed with the foam, as it is somewhat of an original departure from regular sushi.

Tuna sushi in shoyu topped with grated ginger.

Tuna sushi in shoyu topped with grated ginger.

Tuna sushi in shoyu and yuzu zest.

Tuna sushi in shoyu and yuzu zest.

The next two pieces were a good way of demonstrating the versatility of tuna with both salty and citrusy flavours. Of course, I would not be getting the fatty tuna that my neighbour who ordered the premium set menus had. The chef was at the same time preparing the premium omakase courses for other diners. After seeing his box of sea urchin and urchin rice bowl, I began to wish I had been more greedy to start with.

Crab hand roll.

Crab hand roll.

I liked it that this the seaweed was crispy to the bite and this was served well warmed.

Cooked prawn sushi with sea urchin miso.

Cooked prawn sushi with sea urchin miso.

I could not quite taste the sea urchin miso, but was happy with the firm and sweet prawn.

Soup.

Soup.

Finally and regretfully all too soon, I arrived at the last course, which was a clear soup with seaweed mushrooms to chase the sushi down.

So, what’s the verdict? Overall, it was an excellent value sushi meal. No doubt some of the added flair like the truffle flavour in the shoyu and urchin miso were probably too subtle (in too small quantities?) for me to taste. But having said that, every single piece of sushi was fresh and lovingly hand-crafted in front of me like a typical Tsukiji market breakfast — not that such an experience is not available in Singapore, but typically never at this value.

I was also pleasantly surprised Chef Roy is able to offer a variety of textures (the foam and jelly!) and flavours from sweet, salty to sour within the seven sushi courses – just enough to tempt us and remind us we can always return to check out the longer courses.

I left feeling satisfied, and even more impressed when the bill came without service or taxes. It is not clear how long Chef Ryo will offer this special, so catch it while you can. Meanwhile though, he also offers a variety of fish rice bowls, including bara chirashi, salmon and roe and tuna bowl for the busy salaryman who just needs a quick sashimi lunch fix.

Ryo Sushi
1 Tras Link
#01-06 Orchid Hotel
Singapore 078867
Tel: + 65 6443 3463 (reservations are required)

Opening hours: 12pm to 3pm, 6pm to 11pm; Closed on Sundays

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About Author

When not checking out new hotels or restaurants, Singapore-based writer Fen spends her time reading obsessively about and travelling to destinations with unpronounceable names. She also can't stop getting sentimental about vanishing trades and documenting them for posterity.

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