Peranakan cuisine is more than just a collection of recipes. It’s a tapestry of family traditions, cultural influences and flavours passed down through generations. At its newly opened outlet in Aperia Mall, Martina’s Kitchen brings that heritage to life through both its food and its surroundings, creating what it calls a “living museum” inspired by the five senses.
The 128-seat restaurant immediately makes an impression. Colourful windows inspired by the iconic Old Hill Street Police Station brighten the dining room, while Peranakan porcelain, hand-drawn batiks and traditional artefacts lend the space a sense of warmth and nostalgia. The stage – which I understood was for live bands on Fridays and Saturdays – made the place feel theatrical though, and takes away the tastefulness of how a Peranakan eatery should be.
Photo © Martina’s Kitchen
We kicked off the meal with the Deep-Fried Century Eggs ($12.50), and they quickly became one of my favourite dishes of the evening. The alkaline-fermented duck eggs were coated in breadcrumbs and fried until beautifully crisp, while the creamy yolks remained wonderfully rich. I have never seen or had fried century eggs before and I had actually ordered this dish out of curiosity. Luckily, curiosity did not kill the cat in this case and every bite offered a satisfying contrast of textures.
Deep-Fried Century Eggs. Photo © Asia 361
The Fragrant Chicken Wings ($20) were another winner. Sometimes the simplest dishes are the hardest to get right, but these delivered exactly what you want from a plate of fried chicken—crispy skin, juicy meat and well-balanced seasoning that kept everyone reaching for another wing. I thought that the price was a tad high for chicken wings, but this dish felt like comfort food. And, that alone may well justify the price.
Fragrant Chicken Wings. Photo © Asia 361
Equally enjoyable was the Singapore Satay ($15.80). The flame-kissed chicken skewers were smoky, paired with a rich peanut gravy that complemented rather than overwhelmed the meat. I personally felt that the meat was a bit too mushy for my liking, but my two dining companions seemed to like this dish.
Singapore Satay. Photo © Asia 361
The Mackerel Otah ($15.50) showcased why this humble Peranakan classic has endured for generations. Wrapped and steamed until fragrant, the fish remained moist while the aromatic herbs and spices added depth without masking its natural sweetness.
Mackeral Otah. Photo © Asia 361
The Lemongrass Chicken ($19) was another standout. The deep-fried turmeric and lemongrass whole chicken thigh arrived beautifully golden, with crisp skin giving way to succulent meat. The fragrant lemongrass subtly perfumed every bite, making it one of the dishes I’d happily return for.
Lemongrass Chicken. Photo © Asia 361
Not everything reached the same high standard.
The Steam Assam Red Snapper ($16.80) certainly looked appetising, swimming in a vibrant, tangy assam gravy packed with bold flavours. Unfortunately, the fish itself was tougher than expected. For a steamed fish dish, where freshness and delicate texture should take centre stage, this was disappointing and detracted from an otherwise enjoyable sauce.
Steam Assam Red Snapper. Photo © Asia 361
The Nasi Lemak Burger ($22) also left my dining companions and me scratching our heads. Seeing “nasi lemak” in the name naturally set certain expectations. We anticipated some nod to the beloved local dish—perhaps fragrant coconut rice as rice buns or something similar. Instead, it was essentially a crispy chicken burger topped with a sunny-side-up egg and sambal. While the chicken itself was crispy and the sambal added a pleasant kick, the dish felt more gimmicky than meaningful. Without any recognisable rice element or stronger references to nasi lemak, it didn’t quite deliver on the promise suggested by its name.
Nasi Lemak Burger. Photo © Asia 361
Dessert ended the meal on a mixed note.
The Chendol ($6) featured all the familiar ingredients—rich coconut cream, fragrant gula melaka, pandan jelly, red beans, jackfruit and attap seeds. Flavour-wise, it ticked all the right boxes. However, the shaved ice was noticeably too coarse. Instead of melting delicately into the coconut milk, the larger ice crystals made the dessert feel less refined than it could have been. I felt like I was mostly biting ice crystals, taking away the joy of relishing the dessert.
Chendol. Photo © Asia 361
Thankfully, the Ondeh-Ondeh Waffle Ice-Cream ($18.80) proved to be a much stronger finale. The warm pandan waffle paired beautifully with the creamy homemade coconut ice cream, while the gula melaka syrup added just the right amount of caramel sweetness. It was a playful reinterpretation of a familiar local dessert that worked remarkably well.
Ondeh Ondeh Waffle Ice Cream. Photo © Asia 361
The Takeaway
The kitchen shines brightest when it focuses on traditional favourites. The Deep-Fried Century Eggs, Fragrant Chicken Wings, Singapore Satay, Mackerel Otah and Lemongrass Chicken all showcase comforting, well-executed flavours that celebrate Peranakan cuisine without unnecessary reinvention.
The modern creations, however, could use a little more refinement. The Steam Assam Red Snapper fell short because of its texture, while the Nasi Lemak Burger leaned too heavily on novelty without capturing enough of what makes nasi lemak such an iconic local dish. Even the Chendol, though flavourful, was held back by its coarse shaved ice.
When Martina’s Kitchen stays true to its roots, it’s at its very best and those traditional dishes alone make the new Aperia Mall outlet well worth a visit. As one of my dining companions said, the food felt like “home” and that I think is a high compliment.
Martina’s Kitchen
12 Kallang Ave
#01-60/61 Aperia Mall
Singapore 339511
Opening hours: Mon to Fri – 11am to 10pm; Weekends – 10am to 10pm
