Singapore’s dining scene has no shortage of shiny new openings, but few come with as much authenticity as Smolder Seafood Grill and Bar, the latest venture by Wong Jing Kai – better known as Kai – the fish farmer behind Ah Hua Kelong and its first restaurant, Scaled. Once a digital marketer, Kai made the unusual leap into fish farming in 2014, helping to revive one of the last three kelongs still operating in Singapore today.
At Scaled, he showed how locally farmed mussels, clams, and fish could anchor modern small plates. With the new Smolder, located at Outram Road, he turns his attention to a more rustic idea: recreating the spirit of a coastal backyard barbecue. The interiors lean into the theme with warm wood, fishing-net textures, and an open kitchen behind glass panels where the seafood is grilled in full view.
The meal began with Zucchini and Parmesan Fritters (S$10), which were crisp enough and paired with a garlicky aioli. Pleasant, though not especially memorable. The Elote (S$9), Mexican-style grilled corn with sour cream, parmesan, and chili, fared better. It was tangy and messy – much like a street food kind of way.
Zucchini and Parmesan Fritters.
Elote.
A highlight among the appetisers was the Octopus and Potato Salad (S12). The octopus had a nice smoky bite, and the combination with potatoes, bacon, and vinaigrette was balanced and flavourful. It was the dish that came closest to showing what Smolder is about: simple seafood, treated with care.
The mains leaned on comfort. The Portuguese Seafood Stew (S$25) was hearty, with clams, mussels, prawns, and pork belly simmered in a tomato base. It is the sort of dish that works well on a cool evening, though the flavours were straightforward rather than surprising. Still, it paired nicely with the accompanying grilled garlic bread.
Portuguese Seafood Stew.
The Pearl Grouper, grilled whole, was the centrepiece of my meal. When the fish first arrived at the table, I was struck by a strong fishy smell that made me a little apprehensive. Kai later explained that this was largely due to the brine used, rather than the fish itself. True enough, once I tasted it, the flavour was cleaner than expected. The flesh was firm and sweet, with a freshness that reflected its kelong origins. It is prepared simply with salt and pepper, and while the minimal approach can feel austere, it allows the quality of the fish to come through.
Pearl Grouper.
The Burger (S$25), made with a wagyu patty in a brioche bun, was reliable comfort food. It will not rival the best burgers in town, but it held its own as a decent option for those less inclined towards seafood.
Desserts kept things simple. The Olive Oil Cake (S$12), paired with honey whipped cream, was aromatic without being overly sweet. The Five Spice Apple Wonton (S$15) offered a playful twist, with crisp fried skins and spiced apple filling that reminded me of an apple pie done the Asian way. The Chocolate Cake (S$12), layered with espresso almond cream, was pleasant, though again more familiar than bold.
Five Spice Apple Wanton.
Smolder is not the kind of restaurant that dazzles with culinary fireworks. Instead, it leans on the story behind it. The appeal lies in knowing that the seafood is harvested from a kelong at dawn and served that very evening, and in the way the restaurant pays homage to a disappearing part of Singapore’s food culture. As a dining experience, Smolder is relaxed, unfussy and rooted in its identity.
Smolder Seafood Grill and Bar
271 Outram Road
Singapore 169062
Opening hours: Tue to Thu – 5pm to 11pm; Fri to Sun – 12pm to 2.30pm and 5pm to 11pm; Closed on Mon
