Italian food has always been about more than flavour—it is about a sense of place, of warmth, of tradition passed down through generations. At Dolce Vita, Mandarin Oriental, Singapore, this spirit was brought vividly to life when Chef Davide Borin of Essenza, the signature Italian restaurant at Mandarin Oriental, Muscat, took over the kitchen for a week in August 2025. What unfolded on my plate was not just dinner, but a journey through the rustic markets and coastal kitchens of Italy, distilled into four impeccable courses.
Meet Chef Davide Borin
For diners unfamiliar with him, Chef Davide Borin is a rising star in the Mandarin Oriental culinary constellation. At Essenza, his kitchen in Muscat, he has earned a reputation for blending Italian authenticity with refined modernity, crafting dishes that respect their roots while embracing contemporary technique. His cooking is marked by an unwavering respect for ingredients, often favouring restraint over excess, and a philosophy that places seasonality and tradition at its heart.
Having trained across Italy before joining Mandarin Oriental, Borin’s food carries the hallmarks of a chef who understands both the nostalgia of home cooking and the expectations of luxury dining. At Essenza, his menus are celebrated for their coastal flair—seafood prepared with confidence, pasta dishes rooted in rustic traditions, and desserts that offer playful reinterpretations of the classics. This sensibility travelled with him to Singapore, where for one fleeting week, Dolce Vita became an extension of his Muscat dining room.
The Allure of a Culinary Takeover
Part of the appeal of such residencies lies in their exclusivity. For just seven days, Singapore diners could savour a menu normally only available in Muscat. It was more than a pop-up—it was a rare opportunity to experience the culinary identity of another Mandarin Oriental outpost without leaving Marina Bay.
Dolce Vita’s setting added to the allure. Overlooking the glittering skyline, the restaurant’s sleek interiors offered the perfect backdrop for Borin’s dishes. The atmosphere struck a balance between elegance and ease, much like the food itself.
The meal began with a deceptively simple Amuse Bouche — Bruschetta “sciué sciué”. A slice of sourdough topped with heirloom tomatoes and drizzled with extra virgin olive oil, it was proof that restraint can let the ingredients show. The tomatoes, sweet and bursting with ripeness, carried the sun-drenched vibrancy of the Mediterranean.
Bruschetta “sciué sciué”.
The Antipasto, Peperoni ‘mbuttunati, was unapologetically Neapolitan in spirit. A roasted bell pepper, tender yet holding its form, was generously filled with cod fish. The flavours were at once sweet, savoury, and fresh—the saltiness of the cod tempered by mint, the caper guazzetto adding briny brightness. It was rustic in soul yet refined in execution, encapsulating the duality of Borin’s cooking.
Peperoni ‘mbuttunati.
The pasta course, Pasta del Contadino, was the evening’s revelation. A blend of pasta mista with potatoes, smoked mozzarella, and truffle, it celebrated humble ingredients elevated by technique. The potatoes, worked into the sauce, gave it body and creaminess, while the smoked mozzarella lent a subtle depth. The truffle added earthiness, a reminder of the dish’s luxurious setting without diminishing its rustic charm.
Pasta del Contadino
It was here that Borin’s philosophy shone brightest: food that comforts and nourishes, rooted in the traditions of the contadini -the farmers – yet plated with elegance befitting a fine-dining restaurant.
Dessert was a playful reimagining of the classic tiramisu. Borin’s Pistacchiomisu replaced cocoa with pistachio, layering mascarpone cream with espresso-soaked ladyfingers and nutty pistachio cream. The result was lighter than its traditional counterpart, but no less indulgent. Each spoonful carried the comforting bitterness of coffee, balanced by the earthy sweetness of pistachio. It was both familiar and surprising—the perfect finale.
Pistacchiomisu.
What was most striking was not only the food but the conviviality that accompanied it. Borin’s menu was built not on flamboyance, but on generosity. Each dish told a story of heritage, of Italy’s sunlit markets and coastal kitchens, of family meals where recipes are passed down like heirlooms. Yet, presented at Dolce Vita, those same stories took on a new polish, shaped by a chef who understands the demands of luxury while never forgetting his roots.
This balance is what makes Borin’s cooking so compelling. At Essenza, and now at Dolce Vita for a brief interlude, his dishes serve as a bridge between Italy’s past and present, between rustic tradition and refined dining.
For just one week, Singapore was able to taste Muscat’s Essenza. And for those of us who sat at Dolce Vita’s tables during that fleeting residency, it was a journey worth savouring—an immersion into the essence of Italy, distilled through the vision of a chef who cooks not just with skill, but with soul.
Dolce Vita
5 Raffles Avenue
Level 5 Mandarin Oriental
Singapore 039797
