Revving Up My Appetite at Torno Subito by Massimo Bottura: A Formula Lunch Worth the Flag Drop

I didn’t expect to be greeted by a gleaming Formula One car when I arrived at Torno Subito, the vibrant Italian restaurant by internationally acclaimed chef Massimo Bottura. Parked just outside its whimsical entrance at Dempsey in Singapore, the F1 car caught my eye instantly. Naturally, I wondered what it had to do with the restaurant itself. As it turns out—not much. It’s simply a nod to its neighbour, a car museum.

But in a delightful twist, this unexpected visual inspired Torno Subito to craft a special lunch menu, aptly named the Formula Lunch. And let me just say—it turned out to be one of the most memorable meals I’ve had in recent times.

Decked out in retro-chic interiors that channel 1960s Italian Riviera glamour, Torno Subito is anything but your average fine dining joint. The vibe is playful, the colours are bold, and the menu, curated by Bottura and his team, strikes a delicious balance between nostalgic Italian comfort food and inventive modern twists.

Now, I’m not usually one to fuss over bread, let alone mention it in a food review. I’ve skipped the breadbasket at more meals than I can count. But the bread served at Torno Subito completely floored me.

The tomato bread—smoky tomato, potato, and focaccia combined into a bite so flavourful I had to stop mid-conversation. And the sourdough – served with a tomato sauce crumble and a cloud of Parmigiano Reggiano foam – was inspired by the Italian dish pappa al pomodoro—but elevated to something unexpectedly luxurious. This dish embodies the philosophy of “how to save yesterday’s bread,” transforming humble ingredients into a refined appetiser.

I was already impressed before the antipasti even made it to the table. Tip: Do not skip the bread.

We kicked off our Formula Lunch with the Calamaro Alla Genovese—a Genovese-styled squid dish, elegantly plated and stuffed to perfection. It sat in a delicate tomato water reduction, punctuated with basil oil. The flavours were gentle yet complex, and the texture of the squid was buttery soft without the slightest hint of chewiness. I found myself scraping the plate for the last drop of the tomato essence—it was that good.

Next came the Vitello Rosa, which, quite frankly, could be a masterclass in subtlety and finesse. Think slow-cooked, blush-pink veal draped in a luscious tuna and capers mayonnaise. It was rich without being cloying, and elegant in that way only true Italian cuisine can be. The classic tonnato combination was elevated here—refined, balanced, and full of personality.

For my pasta course, I opted for the Tagliatelle al Ragù, a traditional egg pasta topped with Chef Massimo’s favourite hand-chopped wagyu ragù. While it might sound simple on paper, don’t be fooled—this dish is pure magic. Each ribbon of tagliatelle was perfectly al dente, clinging lovingly to the intensely flavourful ragù. The wagyu beef brought a melt-in-your-mouth richness, while the slow-cooked sauce offered deep, soulful notes that warmed the heart.

The meat course was the Controfiletto—a seared striploin paired with grilled maitake mushrooms and a punchy black pepper sauce. I had asked for mine to be medium and the beef was cooked beautifully, with a juicy pink centre and a crust that sang of high-heat searing mastery. The maitake mushrooms added a smoky, earthy contrast, and the pepper sauce tied everything together with a satisfying kick.

My dining companion commented that she usually opted for medium-rare at restaurants in Singapore because most restaurants could not get the doneness right when she asked for medium; however, she added that the Controfiletto has been cooked perfectly.

Dessert came in the form of a delightful one-two punch. First up: Tiramisubito, Chef Massimo’s playful reinterpretation of the classic tiramisu. It arrived deconstructed but somehow retained the nostalgic joy of the original—light, airy, and just the right amount of sweetness to keep you coming back for more. It was familiar yet exciting, a dessert that both honoured and reimagined tradition.

The second dessert, Olio e Melograno, is an olive oil ice cream paired with pomegranate. The olive oil added a creamy, almost savoury depth to the ice cream, while the bursts of tart, juicy pomegranate provided the perfect counterpoint. It was unexpected and a brilliant palate cleanser.

Torno Subito may be cheeky in name and flamboyant in décor, but make no mistake—this is serious cooking. The Formula Lunch is more than just a gimmick inspired by a shiny car; it’s a thoughtfully curated journey through some of the finest expressions of Italian cuisine, seen through the lens of Massimo Bottura’s irrepressible creativity.

If you find yourself in Singapore, and you’re in the mood for a culinary pit stop that fuses humour with haute cuisine, Torno Subito is well worth veering off track for.

Torno Subito by Massimo Bottura
26 Dempsey Road, #01-02,
Singapore 249686
Tel: +65 8121 6120

Opening hours:  Lunch: Wednesday–Sunday, 12pm – 3pm; Dinner: Wednesday–Sunday, 5.30pm – 10pm