Stepping into Kok Sen’s newly minted second outlet at City Square Mall felt like revisiting an old friend, albeit one who had moved into a swanky new neighbourhood. For over five decades, Kok Sen has grown from its humble beginnings as a dingy coffeeshop-ish restaurant along Keong Saik Road to a culinary institution recognised by the Michelin Bib Gourmand for eight consecutive years. Its original location, once a modest zi char haunt, underwent a significant transformation, evolving into a renovated hotspot that kept its charm while embracing a touch of modernity. It was a place that I had fond memories of dining with my friends back in the 2000s.
Thus, I approached the new outlet with a mix of nostalgia and curiosity.
Finding the restaurant, however, proved to be an adventure. Located on the fourth floor of City Square Mall, this new outlet looks (unfortunately) like a food court. In fact, I initially walked past it, assuming it was just another cluster of casual stalls. The absence of a distinctive restaurant atmosphere took me aback, but I decided to give it a fair shot. After all, Kok Sen has always been about the food, not the frills.
The Food
First up was the Golden Dragon Chicken (S$35), one of Kok Sen’s signature dishes. The dish is essentially crispy chicken skin layered with prawn and squid paste and I vaguely remember having it when I was at the original Kok Sen. But alas, it didn’t quite hit the mark. The crispiness I craved was absent, and overall, it was just… okay. A signature dish should dazzle, but this left me wondering it might benefit from a refresh.
Golden Dragon Chicken.
Next came the Big Prawn Thick Beehoon White Soup (S$19 to S$57), another much-lauded dish. While the two prawns were sizeable and the soup had a creamy hue that seemed to promise umami richness, the reality fell short. The broth lacked the depth that makes me want to keep sipping – perhaps a sign that not enough prawn heads were used in the making of the broth. Compared to other prawn beehoon soups in Singapore, it was decidedly average. It was not entirely bad, but it was not memorable either.
Big Prawn Thick Beehoon White Soup.
The Deep Fried “Yu Gai” (S$20 to S$40) or crispy toman fish strips was crispy as advertised but bland when eaten on its own. The accompanying sauce might have been its saving grace, but being spicy, it wasn’t an option for me. A touch of marination could elevate this dish for those who prefer to skip the sauce. As it stands, it’s not one I’d reorder.
Deep Fried “Yu Gai”.
The Roasted Pork with Black Sauce (S$18 to S$36) was, thankfully, a highlight. The pork was tender, and the caramelised black sauce added a rich, smoky sweetness. However, the hard skin detracted slightly from the overall experience. Still, this was the most enjoyable dish of the night and worth a try if you’re visiting.
Roasted Pork with Black Sauce.
Finally, the Claypot Yong Tau Foo (S$18 to S$36) was a simple, homely dish—perfectly adequate but nothing extraordinary. It’s a choice for those who are ardent yong tau foo fans or prefer something straightforward. For me, it didn’t stand out amidst the other offerings.
Claypot Yong Tau Foo.
Dining at Kok Sen’s new outlet was a mixed bag. None of the dishes were outright terrible, but none lived up to the fond memories I have of their Keong Saik Road offerings. Then again, it’s been a decade since I last visited their original spot, so my comparison might not be entirely fair. Still, my experience here left me questioning the Michelin Bib Gourmand accolade.
If you’re new to Kok Sen, this City Square Mall branch might offer a decent introduction. But for those familiar with its original, it might be a case of nostalgia over reality. As for me, I’ll be cautious about putting too much stock in the Michelin Guide for my next dining adventure.
Kok Sen – City Square Mall
180 Kitchener Road
#04-31
Singapore 208539
Opening hours: Daily 11am to 9pm
