In the heart of Keong Saik Road, where culinary gems abound, GU:UM stands tall as a beacon of modern Korean cuisine. This isn’t your average Korean barbecue joint—in fact, far from it. GU:UM, meaning “to grill or cook over fire” in Korean, is the brainchild of Chef Louis Han, the award-winning culinary genius behind the one-Michelin-starred NAE:UM. Known for his innovative approach to blending nostalgic Korean flavours with contemporary techniques, Chef Han has once again pushed boundaries with GU:UM, transforming the humble Korean grill into a refined steakhouse experience. Opened in April 2024, the 40-seater restaurant brings his unique vision to life, where premium ingredients and inventive marinades meet the artistry of open-fire cooking.
On a seemingly ordinary Tuesday evening, GU:UM was anything but. The restaurant was full and buzzing with energy, its minimalist décor offset by the warm glow of the open charcoal grill at the open kitchen. Soft, ambient lighting created an inviting yet vibrant atmosphere. Even on a weekday, walk-in diners were regretfully turned away—a testament, perhaps, to GU:UM’s growing reputation as one of Singapore’s most sought-after dining destinations.
The Food
The evening began with Yukhwae Jeon (S$32), a creative reinterpretation of beef tartare. Chef Han has masterfully combined the richness of hand-chopped Korean beef with the crispness of a Korean potato pancake, topped with pickled onions and a luscious egg yolk jam. This innovative pairing brought together contrasting textures and flavours, resulting in a dish that was both familiar yet surprising. It set the tone for the evening, showcasing GU:UM’s ethos of elevating traditional Korean elements into something entirely new.
Another starter that left an impression was the Mulhwae (S$28), a modern take on a traditional cold soup. Typically enjoyed during hot Korean summers, GU:UM’s version featured fresh seasonal sashimi nestled in a zesty, chilled broth. The vibrant dressing struck a harmonious balance of tangy and savoury notes, perfectly complementing the delicate slices of fish. Light yet full of character, this dish served as a refreshing interlude between richer courses.
One of the highlights of dining at GU:UM is the personal touch that goes into showcasing its premium cuts. Before grilling, diners are presented with their chosen cuts of meat—an interactive ritual that adds a touch of sophistication to the experience. When the beef short rib and Spanish Iberico pork cuts were brought to my table, the marbling on the beef and the glistening sheen of the pork builds anticipation for the flavours to come. And, the meats definitely did not disappoint.
The undisputed highlight of the evening for me was the Woodae Galbi Short Rib, 450g (S$158 per slab). Perfectly grilled over charcoal, the short rib was incredibly tender, with a deep, smoky aroma that lingered enticingly. Each bite was a sweet revelation, with the house-made galbi marinade complementing the short rib perfectly. If there’s one dish to return for, this is it.
On the same platter was Iberico Presa (S$106 for 280g, S$56 for half) marinated in a house-made fermented fish sauce, epitomising GU:UM’s daring approach to experimenting with Korean marinades. GU:UM uses the underwing pork cut, which is supposed to be soft and lean. I found the pork a touch tougher due to the lack of fats. My dining companion, on the other hand, appreciated the robust flavour profile as he has a preference for lean meat.
Asians being Asians, we can’t do without our rice. Yet, I am not exactly a fan of the Korean bibimbap, which is traditionally vegetable-heavy and full of kimchi in my opinion. GU:UM’s Al Bibimbap (S$34), however, was a revelation. With fragrant perilla oil, succulent seafood chunks like abalone and lobster, and pops of briny fish roe, it elevated the dish into a more luxurious experience unlike the bibimbap I usually see. Served in a traditional cast-iron pot, it was both visually appealing and deliciously satisfying. The accompanying XO makjang sambal offered an optional spicy kick, making the dish a versatile choice for varying palates.
No meal is complete without dessert in my books. The Hotteok (S$18) served as our finale for the evening. To be honest, the dessert did not appeal to me visually at first glance, with a scoop of burnt honey ice cream atop an unassuming pan-fried rice pancake. And while I was trying to split up the pan-fried rice pancake, it was a bit tough to cut through. This did not look promising. However, I completely changed my mind the moment I had the first mouthful of the Hotteok. The combination of the warm, chewy pancake and cool, creamy ice cream was heavenly. I was sorry for judging the Hotteok too early.
A Cut Above the Rest
GU:UM isn’t just a restaurant; it’s a statement. It has changed my preconceptions of Korean cuisine, elevating the grill to beyond casual dining status. GU:UM offers an experience that’s leagues ahead of the countless Korean BBQ spots dotting Singapore.
So, the next time someone mentions Korean BBQ, gently steer them towards GU:UM and let them discover what modern Korean grilling is truly about. Just don’t call GU:UM a Korean barbecue restaurant—it’s so much more.
GU:UM
29 Keong Saik Road
Singapore 089136
Reservation: guum.sg