Some restaurants aim to please the palate; at Revolver, it aspires to orchestrate an experience. Tucked away in the heart of Tanjong Pagar, Revolver delivers not only culinary excellence but a sensory spectacle that leaves diners thoroughly captivated. From the crackling energy of its open kitchen to the soundtrack of soft rock classics playing overhead, dining here on a mid-week evening felt like being part of a well-choreographed show.
Revolver’s a la carte menu has recently been launched in September. Bursting with creative dishes, it is a testament to its mastery in blending global influences with Indian culinary traditions. Each plate is a revelation, and the journey begins as soon as you step inside.
Setting the Stage
Picture this: a bustling dining room on a Wednesday night, the open kitchen humming like a perfectly tuned engine. Flames leap from grills, and Chef Jitin Joshi barks orders like a general leading a charge. The intoxicating aromas of charred spices and wood-fired meats swirl around you. The ambiance is electric, with Radiohead’s Creep segueing seamlessly into No Doubt’s Don’t Speak, a quirky yet oddly perfect playlist.
The staff at Revolver are as sharp as the knives in the kitchen. From the moment they guide you to your seat, they exude a quiet confidence, suggesting pairings and ensuring every need is met without being overbearing.
But, the main attraction is the food.
The Culinary Symphony
The first bite of the night came in the form of a smoked burrata tartlet (S$9), a small but mighty dish that set the tone for what was to follow. The creamy burrata, kissed with a hint of smoke and truffles, sat atop a delicate pastry shell, creating a perfect balance of textures. It was a simple yet bold opening statement, leaving you eager for more. A series of small-plate appetisers and main plates came fast and furious thereafter.
The Boneless Chicken Wings (S$20) were grilled to perfection, elevated with a subtle hint of orange zest and accompanied with yuzu aioli on the side. The smokiness of the grill contrasted beautifully with the citrus notes, creating a dish that was as vibrant as it was comforting.
One of the standout vegetarian dishes was the Charred Fennel (S$18). With its South Indian-Ceylonese-inspired flavours, it brought a delightful complexity to the table. The faint sweetness of the fennel paired with the richness of coconut and curry leaf oil was a stroke of genius, transporting you straight to the tropical coasts of India.
The highlight of the evening was hands down the Wagyu Scotch Egg (S$22). Revolver’s take on this UK classic dish was a revelation. Nestled in a bed of crispy potato noodles, the egg was paired with a tangy lemon aioli and spiced up with chilli oil. The potato noodles, tossed in chilli and chaat masala after being deep-fried, added a playful crunch and a punch of flavour that lingered long after the last bite. This dish had me and my dining companion scrapping the last bits of the crispy potato noodles till they were gone.
Being one that does not usually take too well to chilli, this dish was a tad spicy to me but the flavours were so good I tolerated the spiciness. I found it amusing that as the “fire” danced on my tongue, I was watching the fires on the grill dancing in front of me.
For a taste of tradition, the Fresh Delhi Paneer (S$20) dish was nothing short of stellar. Sourced from Delhi as the name suggests, the paneer displayed all the attributes of a good paneer; it was soft yet firm, holding itself together without crumbling, unlike most of the paneer one finds in Indian restaurants. Served with a velvety spinach purée and house pickle, this classic North Indian dish stayed true to its roots, offering a comforting and authentic flavour profile.
The first main dish of the night made its appearance with Whole Baby Chicken (S$38). Spatchcocked and grilled over Revolver’s custom-built wood-fire grill, the French baby chicken was cooked to tender perfection. To be honest, I was expecting a dry chicken, which is typical of a grilled chicken. But somehow, Revolver managed to keep the baby chicken tender, juicy and most of all, evenly cooked throughout. I am inclined to think the tenderness was partly due to the Afghani yoghurt used to marinate the chicken. Served atop a bed of cream cheese and shiso, the juxtaposition of the rich cream cheese and the herbal brightness of the shiso created a symphony of flavours that paired well with the chicken.
The staff brought out another Big Gun (that’s what they called a main dish at Revolver) in the form of Hamachi Collar (S$48). Chef Jitin really knows how to elevate simplicity to greatness through a fire grill. The natural fattiness of the fish was enhanced by the smoky char. Served with a wedge of grilled lemon and dusted with Kashmiri chilli powder, it was a minimalist dish that relied on the quality of its ingredients—and delivered spectacularly.
Even humble vegetables received the royal treatment at Revolver. Coated in a rich sauce and topped with a nut crumble, the Grilled Broccoli (S$18) was another favourite, showcasing the kitchen’s ability to elevate even the simplest ingredients. Vegans and vegetarians will find delight in this simple dish.
And what would a trip to an Indian restaurant – albeit a modern one – be without a taste of butter chicken? Revolver’s Butter Chicken Kulchette (S$22) was a crowd-pleaser. What’s a kulchette, you may ask. Revolver actually invented the kulchette flatbread, drawing inspiration from several sources such as the Indian kulcha, the Turkish pide and the Italian pizza. This dish featured tender butter chicken atop a fluffy flatbread that soaked up the luscious sauce. Served warm and fresh from Revolver’s hand-built tandoor, this was the kind of comfort food that made you want to order seconds—or thirds.
Every dish served to me so far had me widening my eyes in delight with every initial mouthful. Unfortunately, the Dessert Kulchette (S$20) did not quite ignite that same reaction in me. It was not your usual dessert; it featured a tandoor-cooked flatbread stuffed with Indian milk fudge, topped with kulfi gelato and finished with ghee, brown sugar and sprinkles of almonds and pistachio. The cardamon came across too strongly for me in the kulfi. To be fair, it’s my personal preference; I have never liked the taste of cardamon which I found to be overpowering in dishes most of the time. It’s a tad of a pity because I was looking forward to a good dessert to end my spectacular meal with.
Revolver isn’t just a restaurant; it’s an experience. Here, food tells a story and the kitchen is the stage.Watching the chefs work in the open kitchen is mesmerising, their precise movements akin to a performance. The playlist—soft rock with just the right touch of nostalgia—adds to the atmosphere, keeping the energy dynamic. Each dish from the a la carte menu showcased the kitchen’s talent, creativity, and respect for ingredients. Whether it’s the bold reinterpretation of a scotch egg or the homage to Indian classics like paneer and butter chicken, every bite was a testament to culinary excellence. When you leave after a meal, you would feel like you have just watched a satisfying orchestra performance.
Revolver
56 Tras Street
Singapore 078995
Tel: +65 6223 2812
Opening hours: Monday to Saturday – 12pm to 2.30pm and 6pm to 11pm; closed on Sunday