Kakure Sake: A Hidden World of Sake Revealed

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Kakure (隠れ) is hidden away in plain sight. An exclusive sake bar above a prominent colonial bungalow, within the  the beating heart of the city. Chateau TCC, on 29 Scotts Road, houses the affiliated top-tier Omakase restaurant, Ki-Sho, with which the secretive Kakure sake bar shares the kitchen and renowned chef, Kazuhiro Hamamoto.

A spot lit cosmopolitan-styled bar counter that looks like a scene from a high-rise Ginza nightspot takes a commanding position in the small 20-seater space. Setting a jarring contrast from the main bar top feature is a traditional sandpit and suspended iron pot (nabe) cooking set-up. The sake session at Kakure is a complete, immersive event, guided by one of the two kikisake-shi or certified sake sommeliers John and Makoto.

To broaden the experience, the omakase, priced at S$88 for six courses and created by Chef Hamamoto himself, is recommended. With the largest selection of sake in Singapore, it was handy that our host and resident sommelier, Mr. Makoto-san was on hand to shed light on all the fine points of all the delicious stuff we were gulping down.

As with all established sake drinking decorum, we were first invited to pick from a selection of cups, made from materials as divergent as a very malleable metal alloy to a square-shaped cedar-made box. I took the one that looked like it could have been made from gold, just for that extra kick, and in the hope that it would enhance the food and drink.

The night progressed to see us have our fill of eight different types of sake that ranged from sweet (with a classification of -1 to -3) to semi-dry (with a classification of +1 to +10). We were also treated to Nigorizake, or unfiltered sake, which retains its cloudy, opaque quality as it still contains rice sediments. It was very fragrant and nectarous – an ambrosial brew fit for the gods.

Of the Nihonshu (the proper name for Japanese rice wine), the Tatenokawa Junmai Daiginjo, Nakadori Kisho Label, from Tatenokawa brewery in Yamagata was the most special, being ONLY available in Singapore at Kakure. Being the house label, the Tatenokawa Junmai Daiginjo was selected as the best pairing with the delectable  dishes served from the Ki-Sho kitchen. Taking pride in being a forerunner of introducing sake to Singapore, Kakure maintains a large selection with an emphasis on craft brands of high quality.

The accompanying bar snacks can be quite substantial when paired with each little cup of sake but arriving fresh out of Ki-Sho’s kitchen downstairs, they are consummate creations of Pacific Rim perfection. The green tea soba topped with an overflow of eggy orangey baubles was a mouth of yummy umami that complemented the drier Takaisami Tokubetsu Junmai (Polish rate 50 per cent from Tottori prefecture).

My other favourite dish of the night was the plump grilled oyster with a hint of smokiness. This was paired with the chilled Okunoto no Shiragiku Junmai Ginjo Muroka Nama Genshu (Polish rate 55 percent from Ishikawa).

Kakure Sake Bar seats about six at the bar and a maximum of six at a table discreetly tucked at the side of the intimately sized room. Patronised and highly rated by Japanese expats, do make a booking in advance to avoid disappointment.

Kakure Sake Bar
29 Scotts Road, Level 2
Chateau TCC
Singapore 228224.
Tel: +65 6733 5251

Operating hours: Mon to Sat – 6.30pm to 1am
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Guo-Hua, affectionately dubbed Golden Goh since his schooling days, seeks the meaning of life through travel and connections with everyone and anyone.

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