In this region where air is sipped and water is translated as air, magic erupts between the front of the two worlds where these two essential elements collide, chemically reacting and fusing together in an exothermic display of fireworks. Sunrise and sunset – the day’s covenant to all of us choleric beings that the best and worst days last only 24 hours and a new one will always emerge with renewed optimism and promise.
At every turn on the island likened to Bali 50 years ago, Lombok served up unfettered views of the horizon. Endless vistas of untamed waters painted in pigments of lapis lazuli stretched beyond the limits of one’s eye and joined up at the seams of another swath of lighter blue. To get here, ever the sucker for punishment, I took the cheap and more charismatic slow boat from Bali. The views from the top deck as distant landscapes drifted by in a slow parade of peaks and troughs were matched only in terms of charm by the friendly locals who got very chatty and familiar if you could manage some Bahasa Indonesia.
Although the country has a Muslim majority, the peoples’ attitudes are relaxed and warm. The tropical weather and cool sea breezes probably have an agreeable effect on one’s demeanour. Within minutes, a group of middle-aged ladies were taking photos with me, cracking lewd jokes and feeding me with delicious fish crackers. The men were talking politics with me and questioning my marriage status and asking if I were amenable to taking a second, local wife.
After a five-hour journey, I was dropped off at Lembar Harbour which was a further hour’s drive by taxi to Mataram, the main city on Lombok. A gritty and lively place, it hosts Hindu temples, Hindu palaces, great food and an active city life stretching into the small hours of the day. Located close to the city centre, Mayura Gardens and Pura Meru – which is the largest Hindu temple on the island – are the main historical attractions in Mataram. The former was a palace that bore witness to Dutch military action against the local ruler. It is a peaceful site with an adjoining temple that still functions and has a resident Hindu priest who will pose for a photo sporting a very severe look on his face. A large pavilion just next to a large man-made pond sometimes provides an area for performances. Pura Meru is an impressive construction with multi tiered pavilions rising high into the sky, making for a very picturesque sight.
Elsewhere in the city, there are majestic, vast mosque complexes in a state of perpetual construction. They are nothing short of edifices, considering their grand countenance and imposing stature. It dominates the immediate vicinity and gives off a commanding presence. Entry by all is welcome, provided common sense levels of respect are accorded the holy place.
As an island, if Lombok has nothing at all, it has to have beaches and Lombok has plenty. Kuta beach in the south is what its namesake on Bali was 50 years ago – quiet, pristine and not overly populated. Along the way, rice fields line the road, further giving off the impression that you are travelling in an unspoilt land untouched by time.
The Senggigi to Bangsal coastal road was absolutely gorgeous and best tackled with a rented motorcycle available upon request at any accommodation. This is where you will find the prettiest beaches and have them to yourself. This is also where the best sunset spots can be found.
Traditionally designed sailboats and outriggers cut paths in the sea, quickly tracing a line in the blue waters. The craft rushed towards a blazing orange finishing line cast onto the waters by the sinking sun. At Bangsal, one can find boats that will take you to any one of the Gili Islands. Of the three, Gili Meno was my favourite, unsurprising my disdain for crowds and overdevelopment. If it’s the life of the party that you crave, Gili Air and Gili Trawangan have the facilities to throw one for you.
Along the way, don’t miss the Sasak villages. They have developed a cottage industry of weavings and tourist trinkets that are sold from a shop front created at every residence. The village itself is very pretty, as it preserves the time honored building techniques indigenous to the land. If you are lucky, you might catch a sight of a Sasak wedding. These are boisterous affairs where a parade with live rock band in tow will blast out metal ballads and belt out blistering guitar solos while tethered to huge amplifiers mounted on wheels and jerry rigged to 12-volt car batteries.
After sea and sky fuse and burns itself out into an ashen carpet of ebony, don’t look away entirely. Cast your eyes towards the heavens once again and you will find more magic in twinkling clouds of stars. Make a wish upon one of the millions but you may find that it has already been granted.
