Dim sum will never quite be the same again – if you dine at at Mitzo Restaurant and Bar, that is. Like its name suggests, Mitzo turns the concept of “yum cha” on its head by pairing unique cocktails (“Bar”) with your Cantonese cuisine experience (“Restaurant”). What makes the experience even more unique is that it allows for you to be part of the mixology with DIY cocktails. If you need your traditional tea, fret not for you still have your “cha” to go along with your meal, even as you “yum zhao” before that.
We were at Mitzo to try its recently launched contemporary Cantonese brunch featuring the fusion of these two seemingly incongruous worlds. The setting is gorgeous – located within the Grand Park Orchard hotel, the restaurant side of Mitzo is contemporary and sleek, featuring coloured glass panes and plenty of light from the windows. But turn the other way and there’s the dark, sexy neon lights of the bar.
Above it all plays a smooth lounge music soundtrack, creating a sensuous yet casual atmosphere. The dim sum order-as-you-eat buffet is available on weekends and public holidays at S$68++ per person, but top up $50++ to enjoy a free flow of selected cocktails, wines and beers.
Bar – Shake Up Your Own Cocktail
We started off with the Cocktail Atelier. Do not count on Italian mixologist and bar manager Marco Pignotta mixing your drink for you – this is a workshop after all, so you will have to work hard under his guidance to “Shake Up Your Own Cocktail”.
Each month, there are three different types of tea-infused cocktails which encompass traditional chinese medicine elements. I chose the Berry Delight, a fruity cocktail with vodka, mixed flowers tea, rose syrup, lemon juice, lavender water and cranberry soda. I was the perfect lab assistant with the formula and exact portions right in front of me and Professor Marco to supervise. How wrong could I go? My cocktail was refreshing and light, ensuring that I would be sober enough for the food later. For the lazy ones, there are also house cocktails and wines and beer to enjoy without lifting a finger.
Restaurant
This was where we finally sat down for the real deal, with about 40 dishes to choose from that cover roasts, dim sum, appetiser and soup, heavier “main courses”, rice/noodle/congee and dessert. On the whole, food is very good, but the roasts are the real star of the show. Once Deputy Executive Chef at Club Chinois, Chef Nicky worked at notable hotels regionally and internationally before landing the role of Executive Chef de Cuisine at the Michelin-starred Hakkasan New York City.
Food
I will always remember Mitzo for the fact that I ate the best char siew of my life here. Without exaggeration, the Mitzo Special Barbecued Pork was as perfect as it could be – crispy on the outside and tender on the inside. We savoured every piece of it. While I would use the exact same words to describe the equally perfect Crispy Pork Belly served with bun, such a state for char siew is so much more difficult to get right since it needs a good marinade too.
The crispy pork belly was an innovative take on the more commonly seen kong bak pau, which is stewed pork belly in a bun. But to me, the bun was superfluous as I would focus on the meat – perhaps it just needed more sauce for that is what buns are for. Like the special barbecued pork, the pork belly is also available as an a la carte order.
I would go back any day, even a weekday and order a plate of Mitzo special barbecued pork on its own. It was utterly unforgettable.
The range of dim sum dishes were all good, though I liked the Poached Dumpling with Sichuan sauce and the Mini Black Pepper Pork Puff best, with the latter having a perfectly flaky pastry. Other regular dim sum favourites like Custard Buns (with salted egg filling), Char Siew Bun and Steamed Pork Dumpling are good though unremarkable. The Vegetable Bun looked delectably like a mushroom and contained within it – you guessed it – mushrooms with rich truffle oil. I also loved the Stir-fried Scallop with Egg White and Fresh Milk.
For the main courses, the Crispy Prawns with Spicy Mango Sauce were delectable, as was the Stir-fried Osmanthus Chicken which was delicately flavoured with osmanthus flowers. While many of us found it difficult to accept the bright green of the Wasabi-infused Baked Fish, it definitely tastes better than it looks. The Pan-fried ribeye in wasabi and Korean chilli sauce would have done better if it were in a smaller portion and sliced thinly – thus be warned that this dish is very substantial, though it will be welcomed by beef fans.
I asked to try the Poached cabbage in lobster bisque – the taste of the crustacean did not quite come through with the naturally sweet cabbage, but this dish helps to prepare one’s palate and stomach for the otherwise meaty dishes in dim sum. We were glad for the greens.
If you need noodles, the Braised Truffles Udon is heavenly for truffle fans and the Fried Noodle with Black Pepper Shredded Chicken can also be considered. Both are excellent, but are bound to leave you with little room for other dishes, so it is best that you go slow on the sampling or order them near the end of the meal.
When it came to dessert time, the Aloe Vera with Osmanthus Jelly was my take for a refreshing way to cap off what had been a steady stream of delicacies during our two-hour marathon eating session. For the others at my table, they said the Chilled Mango Cream with Sago and Pomelo Topping was the best they had ever eaten. Another nice dessert, which contrasted well with the previous two cold ones, was the warm and rich Double-boiled Almond Cream with Glutinous Rice Ball. From the à la carte menu, we also tried the Crispy Glutinous Pumpkin Dumpling with Custard Filling which is akin to a dessert.
Mitzo offers an excellent quality value-for-money and wide-ranging brunch menu (S$68++ per pax for food only or S$118++ with alcohol) in a lovely setting to spend your weekends and public holidays. It would be ideal to take a look at the à la carte menu to try some dishes that are not available on the brunch menu. Otherwise, there are also set menus available.
And I reiterate – the Mitzo special barbecued pork is the best char siew I have ever tasted in my life.
Mitzo Restaurant & Bar
Level 4 Grand Park Orchard,
270 Orchard Road Singapore 238857
Tel: +65 6603 8855