Our Adventure Of A Lifetime on Mountain Lodges of Nepal’s Annapurna Gurung Trail

Ever since I got dragged onto a surprise hike on what I thought was a carefree girls trip to Taiwan with my friends back in 2017, I haven’t gotten enough of hikes. As my love for hiking grew and as with most other trekking or mountaineering enthusiasts, so did my desire to visit the pioneer of all adventure destinations – Nepal. Home to Mount Everest and its surrounding Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal is the world’s premier trekking spot since commercial trekking began in the 1960s. 

During my three-month sabbatical from work, I took the chance (and courage!) to finally check Nepal off my bucket list, and jumped at the opportunity to travel with Mountain Lodges of Nepal on the adventure of a lifetime. 

Pre-Trek

Given it was my first time trekking in Nepal, it gave me peace of mind to go with a a reputable and established company.

Mountain Lodges of Nepal (MLN) first started in 1991 with a simple goal of continuing the traditions of Nepali mountain hospitality. Today, it is a family-owned brand that features multiple quality accommodations around renowned Himalayan trekking trails. The main hotspots of Annapurna and Everest are covered with their comprehensive offerings, along with other hidden gems of the country the likes of Manang and Mustang- to allow travellers to experience all of Nepal’s best. These lodges can be booked for individual stays or serve as your fixed accommodation on their multi-day trekking packages. 

Their journey packages include ground transfers, guides, full-day itineraries and premium stays in their comfortable lodges. Trekking companies are aplenty in Nepal, but MLN not only took away the stress of planning, but provided the assurance of quality throughout–perfect for the spoilt traveller in me. 

I opted for the 6-day-5-night Annapurna Gurung trail, which were to take me to a maximum altitude of 2012 metres. It felt like a perfect beginner sampler of Nepal, allowing me to focus on the trekking experience without having to suffer the side effects of altitude sickness.

The Adventure Begins

After flying into Kathmandu from Singapore, our real adventure kicked off with a 30-minute domestic flight to Pokhara, the start and end point of the 6D5N trek. The package includes nightly accommodation in Mountain Lodges of Nepal properties in Annapurna, and full board meals in each lodge. Airport transfers, transfers to the hiking start and end points, a personal guide and porter are also included, so I was never left stranded or having to figure out what the next step is. 

The route forms a circuit around the valley on both sides of the Modi River, with the nearby towering peaks of Annapurna South, Hiunchuli, Gangapurna and Machhapuchhre. The surrounding mid-hills belong to mostly Gurung villagers, an ethnic group known for their affinity for soldiering, with their bravest and fittest men being recruited to Gurkha forces. 

With an average of four to five hours of trekking each day, the trail offers a good balance of adventurous trekking with opportunities for sightseeing. Every morning, our trek would start at 8am and we would reach the next lodge around lunchtime. The rest of the day was ours to relax and savour the views from the lodge, or to explore the nearby villages. 

Initially, I was not sure what to expect, being a city girl and all. However, MLN took the effort to ensure the full comfort of every guest at their lodges, providing full-board meals, rooms with en-suite bathroom, hot water (yes!), free wifi and even creature comforts like bedroom slippers.

I’ll explain the general outline of each hike, along with the unique features of each lodge and how they all come together to create the perfect Annapurna experience.

Daily itinerary

Day 1: Dhawa – Birethanti (1025m) 

Duration: 3 hours | Distance: 5km 

This first trek is one of the shortest. It’s a slightly uphill trek through grassy foothills and unique villages including a Bee Village where both wild and bred beehives are abundant, producing fragrant Himalayan honey. We liked this hike as it allowed us glimpses into the lives of the villagers, who were so friendly and return our “namastes” with big smiles. Occasionally, we would meet some cheeky children demanding for chocolate. Along the way, we encountered their livestock and saw a big herd of goats out grazing. Upon crossing a large suspension bridge over the roaring Modi river, we arrived at MLN – Birethanti for the night. 

Overnight: MLN – Birethanti 

Also known as Sanctuary Lodge, this homely lodge is uniquely situated, giving us an epic view of Fishtail mountain. We remember this lodge the most for its excellent service, provided by its team led by their manager Krishna. From the moment we set our bags down upon arrival, we were offered cold towels and lemon juice.

For our meals, the staff were extremely polite and attentive, offering us refill after refill and making sure everything was to our liking. When they noticed we devoured the chicken skewers, they immediately prepared a second serving. During happy hour, when we saw that the clouds had cleared, the staff even carried tables for us into the lawn so we could enjoy an unobstructed view of the mountain while snacking away. 

The rooms may be slightly dated but they are more than adequate, as the lodge does have a rich history – being the earliest built lodge of the MLN chain. In the common seating area, you will find write-ups on the history of the lodge and how it was built. It however is also the lodge with the largest capacity, with more than 30 rooms. 

Day 2: Birethanti – Ghandruk (2012m)

Duration: 6 hours | Distance: 9km 

Our guide Ruk warned us that this would be the hardest hike of all, and he meant it. We set off shortly after breakfast at 7am, to account for the six-hour long journey ahead of us. The hike started off with great views of Fishtail mountain along a paved road, followed by lots of brutal uphill stone steps in the sun. The trek was one of the most scenic ones; we got sweeping views of the surrounding terraces and wheat fields. It was lively too as we passed villages, guesthouses and shops and got to interact with the locals and other travellers.

We did of course take breaks along the way, but the continuous elevation gain (my iPhone says it’s the equivalent of 122 flights climbed) and sun exposure left us drenched in our sweat. Even after we saw the welcoming sign that signalled arrival at Ghandruk village, it took another 40 minutes of further stairs to the final destination and vantage point that is MLN – Ghandruk. 

Overnight: MLN – Ghandruk 

Upon entering Ghandruk village, we saw signs pointing to the different lodges and were told to look out for its alias, Himalaya Lodge. Aptly named, Himalaya Lodge is perched high up in the village to grant you stunning views of Annapurna South and Hiunchuli on a clear day. Of the five lodges we were in, this was situated at the highest elevation and gave the closest view of the mountains. While we didn’t get so lucky with the weather, the cool 18-degree-Celsius temperature at night was surely relished. 

The rooms were kitted out with everything we needed, with a spacious toilet and strong wifi that reached the rooms, which was perfect for us to stream the K-drama we had been following. We heard that in the winter months, the temperature can hit single digits, so our room also came with North Face jackets, gloves and beanies. 

What we loved most about this lodge was the excellent Nepali food. For dinner, we were served momos and even got second servings after we devoured them all! For breakfast, we bit into soft yet crispy traditional Gurung bread, which was the lovechild of a youtiao and churro, a dream for a bread lover like myself. 

We fondly remember the warm welcome we felt from this lodge. When it was raining prior to dinner time, the staff thoughtfully left umbrellas outside our door so we would stay dry on our journey to the dining hall. When one of us was sniffling away from allergies, they specially prepared a hot cup of soothing honey ginger lemon tea. When we were departing the next morning, the lodge’s owner, Lalit, sent us on our way with flowers in our hair.

Day 3: Ghandruk – Landruk (1565m) 

Duration: 4 hours | Distance: 9km 

What goes up, must come down- quite literally. Every step we climbed up the previous day, we had to trudge down on day three, and our calves have been aching ever since. This hike brings you on a two-hour downhill on well-paved steps. Though it’s easy on the lungs, it can be quite steep. We arrived again at the banks of the Modi River where we found a teahouse for some needed rest for our jelly legs, before making another suspension bridge crossing to the other side of the valley. 

Then came the hard part. To get to Landruk, we had to take 1.5 hour’s worth of steps that only went up, up and up. Thankfully, this part was mostly dry and clear, with sweeping views of the hills when we found the energy to turn around. It was totally worth it as we stepped foot into the peaceful and welcoming grounds of MLN – Landruk. 

Overnight: MLN – Landruk 

After the gruelling uphill it journey, settling into MLN Landruk, or Labee Lodge, was a much relished feeling. The first thing that struck us upon entering was the impressive, sweeping view from the lodge. Towards the back, we looked back down on the valley, awash with sunlit glow, and further in the distance, the Himalayan peaks towered impressively above. Safe to say, we couldn’t get enough. 

Again welcomed with towels and lemonade, we were then invited into our tremendously clean and spacious rooms to settle down. The best part was the modern rain shower to refresh ourselves, and we were even offered foot massages for absolute relaxation. The staff here were again very friendly and polite, checking on us every now and then, and meticulously taking our orders for breakfast the next day. We’d strongly recommend getting the oat porridge- when mixed with fresh fruit and Himalayan honey, there’s no better way to start the day. 

For happy hour, we were invited to a large and homely sitting area, where it felt like Christmas had come early. We sipped on hot drinks with freshly popped popcorn, cozying up next to the furnace, while the sun set outside to make way for the cool night. After dinner, we snuck back into bed and fell asleep easily, thanks to their plush and comfortable blankets. 

Perhaps it was the spacious compound and views all around, the sheer space of the room, or the cozy environment created by their staff, but we found ourselves thinking back most fondly about this lodge of all. 

Day 4: Landruk – Tomijong (1400m) 

Duration: 5 hours | Distance: 9km 

Day four offers some respite after two brutal days of hard work. We followed what’s known as a hillman’s path along relatively flat terrain in order to get to Tomijong in about three to four hours. As it was less exhausting, we got to soak in the adventure with all five senses. This path took us through forest, which offered cool shade and the mesmerising rush of waterfalls all around. This was also the day with the most streams to cross, one of which necessitated taking our shoes off and wading through cold rocky waters. 

Unfortunately, our original route was blocked by a landslide, so we had to travel via a dirt track sometimes used by vehicles, which was more muddy and to our dismay, more leech-friendly too. This extended our hike by an hour or more, including the time we needed to regain composure and nurse our bleeding feet. Our guide told us because it was September and tail-end of the monsoon season, the leeches were out in full force.

Don’t let this deter you, because in the last hour or so, the villagers and cute dogs we encountered made it all worthwhile. We forgot all the ordeal when we found the sanctuary that is MLN – Tomijong. 

Overnight: MLN – Tomijong

MLN Tomijong, or Mala Lodge, was tucked behind a serene bend. Following a little four-legged canine companion in, we weren’t expecting to find such a peaceful compound hidden within. Their 18 rooms are spread over large, beautiful grounds, with colourful flowers carefully tended to by their gardener. We received our welcome drinks in a pavilion.

When we woke for sunrise the next morning, the clouds cleared to give us a mesmerising view of the peaks, and thanks to Nimi, one of the staff whom we befriended, we even dined outdoors so as not to miss a minute. 

The rooms here were comfortable and well-fitted, with even a seating area right next to a large window, where we got to admire the scenery. Personally, with all the greenery in Tomijong, I couldn’t get enough of the view outside, and stayed on the porch for most of my time there. Seated with a cup of hot tea and freshly baked cookies, watching the clouds roll by and the dogs play, it was the true definition of inner peace.

Happy hour here was also memorable as we got to enjoy fresh fried potato chips; we’ll forever miss the flavour of Nepali potatoes, as we gobbled up the french fries served at each meal too! 

Day 5: Tomijong – Dhampus (1740m) 

Duration: 3 to 4 hours (5 hours in our case) | Distance: 9km 

The final day of long hiking involves an uphill push via Pothana village. The route ascends gently, largely going through shaded forest, vast fields and farmland. We crossed paths with donkeys carrying loads, and buffaloes enjoying their mud baths. 

For locals, this journey typically takes about three hours. We, however, took a good five hours for this day as we were again thwarted by leeches. They were particularly pesky that day. We spent significant portions of the hike performing leech checks on our shoes and trying to get them off. Eventually and much to our relief, our very patient guide decided to forgo the usual shortcut, and brought us on a longer but more open route that would avoid overhanging leaves and the chance of leech encounters. 

Towards the end, we emerged out of the forest and arrived at beautiful Pothana, where we came to an ACA (Annapurna Conservation Area) Checkpost and Information Centre. It was here that our guide checked us in with our permits. Cosy guesthouses and rest stops are all around, and it’s also the gateway to the Pothana Viewpoint at 2090m. We waited out the rain in a traditional Gurung teahouse, before exiting Pothana. After a 45-minute descent on some steady steps, the stunning MLN – Dhampus came into view. 

Overnight: MLN – Dhampus 

While the mountains eluded us in Ghandruk and Landruk due to weather, our guide consoled us with the knowledge that our last lodge, Dhampus Lodge, would offer a panoramic view. As it turns out, he wasn’t lying. Descending into Dhampus rewarded us with an unobstructed view of the expansive mountains, and snow caps were already coming out for a peek! 

As their newest lodge, Dhampus’ reception was already a treat for the eyes, with plush chairs to sink into. Their 26 rooms are in blocks of two, each named after the iconic mountaintops. We were shown to our room, Dhaulagiri. Stepping into these newly furnished rooms, they were the biggest of all so far, and reminiscent of the stays one would find in a decent beach resort in Southeast Asia, especially with the rain shower feature. At the foot of the bed, we had ample seating space and a large window to look out at the mountains. 

Dining here is also an experience on its own, as the dining room also has full windows looking out at the Himalayas. For dinner, we savoured a Nepali staple, dal baaht, which many of the locals we asked said was their favourite meal to have. Again, breakfast was enjoyed outdoors as we woke up to the clearest skies of the trip. Our constant oohs and aahs were not enough to capture just how enthralled we were to see the peaks appear one by one. For the very trained eye, you can even spot the peak of Manaslu in the distance (one of the eight thousanders!). 

Day 6: Dhampus – Ghattekhola 

Duration: 1.5 hours | Distance: 3km 

By this time, we were waddling like penguins every time we got up from a chair from how sore our muscles were. Thankfully, the final trek is a short and very enjoyable one. Upon leaving Dhampus, we first went along a road that provided sweeping final views of the Annapurna range. We then inched our way down the hillside via pretty manageable stone steps, with sufficient break time to take in the last of the views. Without pushing ourselves and taking generous amounts of rest, we still got to the meeting point earlier than planned. 

Even after the mountains left our sight, we were still surrounded by lush foothills and saw numerous villagers going about their day. As we progressed downhill, teachers and students were making their way up to school, elderly villagers taking carefree morning strolls, and people lining up for their usual provisions. 

After hopping over some rocks that formed the final stream crossing, we boarded a vehicle that took us back to the Pokhara office in about 40 minutes. And with that, the adventure comes to a close, but clichéd as it sounds, these memories will stick around for a lifetime. 

Final Takeaway

This once-in-a-lifetime wouldn’t have been possible without MLN, and I touch my heart when I say I’ve already been recommending them to a couple of friends. I am even looking at an Everest adventure with them some time in the horizon, when adventure calls again.

MLN provided a hospitable experience, with excellent service throughout – the seamless transfers, professional service from the guides (who even accommodated us and our phobia of creepy crawlies) and team at the Pokhara office, thoughtful inclusions like backpacks, sticks, gloves, outerwear – all of which took the stress of planning away so we could focus on just savouring the experience. Each lodge was a perfect sanctuary, where we felt so close to nature and yet not too far removed from our usual creature comforts – peaceful spots to admire the scenery without having to go far, and comprehensive meals and offerings like massages. 

As with most packages, there are some exclusions to take note of, such as domestic flight costs, additional nights of accommodation in Pokhara/Kathmandu if needed, tips, and drink orders on top of the one free beverage you get from the bar at each lodge. These costs didn’t add up to much, and the company was extremely helpful in even facilitating our stay in Nomad Hotel Lazimpat, a partner hotel in Kathmandu. Apart from these, the package actually factors in insurance coverage and daily wages for the trekking staff, and your ACAP and TIMS permit fees, on top of the itinerary, room amenities and numerous filling meals. 

MLN makes for the ideal operator if you’re like us, amateur hikers with a growing appetite for adventure and inching slowly out of our comfort zone. Their itineraries and smooth organisation are worth every extra dollar, as they make Nepal’s wondrous landscapes an accessible experience. It’s perfect for getting a sampler of the region without putting yourself through uncertainty and arduous conditions you may find at other teahouses.

Even if you are a more experienced trekker and have no problem roughing it out, MLN would still be a good choice to elevate your travels to the next tier, as they have longer itineraries that balance out adventure with luxury and quality offerings. With MLN, we could just focus on the trekking, eliminate the stress of logistics while securing guaranteed nights of rest and rejuvenation at their premium properties. 

These six days and five nights may have sounded daunting (we blame the leeches!) but now that you’ve read through this, we hope you’re a little more prepared and much more inspired to take on the challenge. We promise that every second of the Himalayas is worth it, and thanks to MLN, the mountains are easier to conquer.

For more information on the trekking packages offered by Mountain Lodges of Nepal, visit their website.