I stepped into UsQuBa on an early weekday evening, greeted by bright orange chairs and the distinct smell of brand new high-end upholstered leather. Judging by the location alone, just a few steps from the Merlion and with sweeping views of Marina Bay, the modern European grill and whiskey bar seemed to have it all. Beyond the aesthetics, UsQuBa has even more to show for in the culinary aspect.
The restaurant is helmed by Group Executive Chef Guven Uyanik who had a string of appointments at Michelin-starred restaurants in London and who later became Group Executive Chef at The Kee Club in Hong Kong which also earned a Michelin star. For this particular occasion, I was to try the new seasonal menu which comes with whiskey pairings.
I began with the Aberdeen Angus Steak Tartar (S$25) which proved to be a tantalising start to the meal. The biscuit which the steak tartar sits on is actually made with bone marrow which gave it a savoury flavour that complemented the chewy steak tartar bits. All this is then topped with the slightly bitter rocket salad which served as a counterpoint to the piquant tartar and underlying biscuit. The steak tartar was paired with Glendronach 12 Years Old whiskey.
We had the Japanese Yamaguchi Baby Chicken (S$36) next. While it is a chicken dish by any measure, it was hard not to focus on the foie gras which came in such a large portion – even larger than the chicken itself. The thickness is meant to allow the diner to savour the full spectrum of the foie gras’ texture, from the slightly crispy outer layer to the juicy and melt-in-your-mouth goodness of the center. While the chicken was delightful on its own, I couldn’t help but leave it as an afterthought to the foie gras. The chicken was paired with Compass Box Spice Tree whiskey.
The Pacific Tooth Fish (S$36) was probably my favourite dish of the night. Amazingly soft and with a texture so smooth and slippery, the fish is best eaten together with the accompanying truffle pork ragout which is spread over in copious amounts. Don’t judge me, but I was still having a go at the pork ragout even as I finished devouring the fish. The dish was paired with Oban 14 Years Old whiskey.
Another favourite of mine, the Kurobuta Pork 2 Ways (S$34) is a fine example of the fusion that is shown in Chef Guven’s cuisine. With the meat sourced from Japan, the pork came as a piece of seared belly and another as braised cheeks. I particularly loved the pork belly. With alternating layers of fat and lean meat, it was such a mouthwatering dish that left me wanting for more as I gulped down my piece. The dish was paired with Bulleit Bourbon whiskey.
The Sanchoku Wagyu Short Ribs (S$36) seemed like an intimidating dish at first, what with the tall commanding chunk of bone filled with highly nutritious marrow within. Look past the appearance and you’ll soon find the short ribs to be a star with an unbelievably tender quality that goes well with plum jus. The bone marrow is best eaten sparingly, that is if you can contain yourself from having more than just a spoonful. The dish was paired with Glenmorangie 12 Years Old Lasanta whiskey.
The Grilled Venison came with a strong gamey flavour that is sure to please lovers of deer meat. The dish came with poached wild berries to help balance out the strong flavour coming from the meat. Curiously, there is also a side of sweet purple potato puree, a nod to Asian sensibilities. The dish was paired with Laphroaig 10 Years Old whiskey.
As a lover of all things lamb, I was seriously looking forward to the Tasting of Lamb (S$78) even though I was already feeling full after what had already been six dishes. The lamb was cooked from the Josper Grill and it must be noted that UsQuBa is one of just two restaurants in Singapore which possesses this equipment. This allowed the meat inside to remain reddish with a succulent quality despite the exterior being slightly charred. The dish was paired with Dalmore 15 Years Old whiskey.
The lamb came with two side dishes – a serving of vegetables and some seriously delicious shepherd’s pie. The latter was excellent and could have been a dish on its own. There’s also talk going around that the recipe was passed down from Gordon Ramsey’s grandmother and given how good it was, I am inclined to believe that.
For the food and ambience, do expect to pay a premium price at UsQuBa though I believe you’re getting the quality that you pay for. The interpretations are certainly not run-of-the-mill and I could honestly say I enjoyed almost all the dishes I tried.
UsQuBa
One Fullerton
#02-03B
Singapore 049213
Tel: +65 8723 6378
Email: [email protected]
Opening hours:
Mon to Thu – 11.30am to 11pm (last order at 10.30pm)
Fri to Sat – 11.30am to 1am (last order 12.30am)
Sun – 11am to 10pm (last order: 9.30pm)
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