It was like trying to locate a speakeasy bar as I looked around for any signs that might clue me to the entrance for Gibson. I double-checked the address given to me before I finally succumbed to asking for directions. A non-descript side entrance opened to a dimly lit staircase which led to the second level of 20 Bukit Pasoh Road, where a new whisky was being launched in Singapore.
The Beast of Dufftown
Mortlach, a whisky that connoisseurs have nicknamed “The Beast of Dufftown”, presents a unique preposition from Speyside, northeastern Scotland. Single-malt whiskies from Scotland are generally divided into five main regions – Speyside, Highlands, Lowlands, Islands and Islay, which each region displaying its own characteristics. However in almost all things, there are always exceptions and Mortlach is one of those exceptions.
According to Georgie Bell, the brand ambassador for Mortlach, Speyside single-malts are generally described as light, fruity and grassy notes. Mortlach seems to be the “wild child”, with its darker, richer and bolder expressions bucking the trend compared to the rest of the distilleries from the region. Perhaps it is such characteristics that have Mortlach favoured by master blenders, who have for decades used it to give “backbone” to some of the world’s most famous blended whiskies, such as the Johnnie Walker Black Label.
Georgie Bell, Mortlach brand ambassador. Photo courtesy of Mortlach.
Mortlach, first established in 1823, is an old distillery. It is the first legal distillery in Dufftown, which is the spirit (pun intended) centre of Speyside. In fact, William Grant worked for over two decades there before founding Glenfiddich later. However, it only came to prominence after George Cowie and his son Dr. Alexander Cowie took over in 1867 and defined the special “2.81 distilling process” that is still being used today.
Bottles of Mortlach Rare Old and 18 year-old. Photo © Justin Teo.
The edgy rectangular bottles used for Mortlach’s three new liquids stands out, and seemed rather contemporary for a name so old. The 18-year-old and the 25-year-old bottles are embellished with intricate metal frames that suggest inspiration by truss bridges used for railroads – a fitting homage to George Cowie, who was instrumental to Scotland’s railroad development during the Victorian period.
Mortlach 25-year-old, embellished with metal designs. Photo courtesy of Mortlach.
I began tasting session with the Rare Old Mortlach, which had some floral notes on the nose, typical of Speyside, but bolder. It suggests of dark fruits, with the sweetness giving way to a dry finish.
As I began nosing the 18-year-old, I imagined myself sitting in front of a raging fire in Winterfell, the House of Stark castle from the Games of Thrones series. The robust and complex flavours keep my olfactory working overtime, with meaty notes and hints of spiciness that Georgie suggested would go quite well with some charcuterie.
Mortlach tasting at Gibson bar. Photo © Justin Teo.
The last, and frankly, my favourite of the evening was the 25 year-old Mortlach expression. The tasting notes were spot on with the description of “an intriguing mix of elegance and power”. I have had more powerful and bolder whiskies, but for power to be tempered and balanced with elegance is rare. The 25 year-old Mortlach also has an excellent finish, with a gradual rolling off complexity and sweetness.
Georgie On My Mind, a delicious cocktail with Mortlach Rare Old single-malt. Photo © Justin Teo.
Malt fans who would like to get their hands on Mortlach may try Whiskyworld.sg. The new Mortlach expressions are priced at S$108, S$360 and S$1200 for the Rare Old, 18-year-old and 25-year-old respectively. I also highly recommend trying Gibson’s cocktail creation – Georgie On My Mind, named for Mortlach’s brand ambassador, Georgie Bell. I found it a delicious mix of coconut cold-brew coffee, salted vanilla syrup and pandan bitters with the Mortlach Rare Old.
