The Aqua Restaurant Group was about to celebrate its 15th anniversary on 19 September, just four days after I was invited for a tasting at aqua, their 29th floor flagship restaurant at One Peking, in Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong. To have thrived in the competitive Hong Kong F&B scene like Aqua Restaurant Group has done for over a decade, the accomplishment itself is as spectacular as the view from the top of the commercial building near the cruise centre.
The blue-tinted glass façade inclined upwards towards the tall ceiling, and bathed the interior in an aquamarine glow, giving me a sense of being underwater. The vista of the Hong Kong Island skyline across Victoria Harbour was breath-taking and perhaps worth the visit alone in my opinion.
Breathtaking views of Victoria Habour from the 29th floor of One Peking Road. Photo © Justin Teo.
The aqua restaurant offers both Italian and Japanese menus, so do not be confused by the signage in the building that is labelled “aquaroma” and “aquatokyo”. I was invited to try aqua’s salad menu that was launched in May by their executive chef, Paolo Moressi. Chef Moressi joined the Aqua Restaurant Group in 2014, bringing with him years of experience working with various Michelin-starred chefs in Italy.
Chef Paolo Moressi. Photo by Aqua Restaurant Group.
Not your average salads
I was started off with the Orbetello Sea Bass Carpaccio Salad (HKD$268). This was an exquisitely plated dish that would test the efficiency of any kitchen since the ingredients have to be painstakingly arranged on the black slate canvas.
Orbetello sea bass carpaccio salad (HKD$268). Photo © Justin Teo.
Tasting the dish was akin to listening to a song, with a melody of flavours as I worked my way across the plate; I had high notes from the zingy lemon-infused foam and bursts of saltiness from salmon roe; the mids from the sun-dried tomatoes, and the rhythms came from the crunchy asparagus and toasted nuts; finally, the fresh slivers of sea bass and avocado provided the background bass.
Painstakingly plated sea bass carpaccio, with lemon-infused foam, avocado, hazelnuts and asparagus. Photo by writer.
After getting warmed up, I was served a heartier dish – the Parma Ham and Arugula Salad (HKD$288). Just like the lemon-infused foam in the carpaccio salad, this dish demonstrated another molecular gastronomic technique with the aged-balsamic caviar, where little drops of aged-balsamic vinegar are encapsulated in a thin gelatine shell and made to resemble black caviar.
Parma ham and arugula salad (HKD$288). Photo © Justin Teo.
The balanced acidity and sweetness from these tiny ebony pearls perfectly complimented the creamy buttery balls of Burrata cheeses. The stringy chewy texture of the Burrata and Parma ham was contrasted with the crunchy arugula and artichoke heart. My only gripe was that I could have used more of the balsamic caviar.
Parma ham wrapped Burrata cheese, topped with aged balsamic caviar, and arugula and artichoke hearts. Photo © Justin Teo.
Finally for the third and last dish, the general manager suggested I try a warm salad, since the first two were cold ones. The deceptively simple-looking Orange Mushrooms and Sliced Apple on Pork Leg Cubes (HKD$218) takes quite a bit of time to prepare the slow-cooked pork leg mixed with raisins and pine nuts, before being deep-fried in a thin shell. Pairing pork and apples is just one of those perennial combinations that work, and in this case, it worked fabulously.
Orange mushrooms and sliced apple on pork leg cubes (HKD$218). Photo © Justin Teo.
The apple puree went superbly with the slightly dry pork leg cube. The apple sauce had such a lovely rich flavour and the right balance of tartness and sweetness that I had to ask the aqua staff about it. Just like most of the other ingredients in the dishes I tasted, the Golden Delicious apple was also imported directly from Italy. Fresh and authentic ingredients are simply crucial to Italian cuisine.
Farro and Bronte pistachio lobster salad (HKD$288). Photo by Aqua Restaurant Group.
Although I was served only three salads for lunch, it would have been too much to fit the last of Chef Moressi’s Farro and Bronte Pistachio Lobster Salad (HKD$288) in me. In fact, apart from the carpaccio salad, I felt that the rest of the dishes should have been more accurately labelled as appetisers or starters. As I sipped my espresso (HKD$40) and stared out across the habour, it gave me the perfect opportunity to ponder about the inspiration for the name of the restaurant; perhaps it was the view, or perhaps it was simply the owner’s favourite colour.
aqua
29+30F, 1 Peking Rd,
Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong
Tel: +852 3427 2288
Opening hours: Daily 12 pm to 2 am
